Eating Osaka

 

Osaka was my first taste of Japan and after the 4 days we had stayed I did not want to leave! My introduction to Japan was certainly overwhelming but I really, really loved Osaka, and you know what, I don't even know what it was about Osaka that stole my heart, it just felt... good.

When I was growing up, we took family holidays in Hong Kong, and that city and Osaka give me similar vibes- crazy but really safe. It's busy and old and new and delicious smells waft around every corner, the districts have distinct personalities and getting lost is just FUN. I think Osaka was my favourite.

A great start was the fabulous hotel we stayed in. I wasn't familiar with the Hotel chain 'Citadines' but both of the Citadines we stayed in (Osaka and Tokyo) were outstanding. The rooms were big and beautiful and had living space and kitchenettes. Pour over coffee was supplied in the rooms (and was DELICIOUS). We also had breakfast included with this stay and although not massive, the breakfast spread was varied and all very good.

The hallways still have an Art Deco vibe: building built in 1920s

pour over coffee sachets: game changer

Lets head down to breakfast. 

For a small buffet, the Citadines really offered everything anyone could want and dare I say, more. The classics of cereal, yoghurt, fruits, coffee and juice, breads, rolls pastries, cheeses and cold cuts, salads, all the Western hot breakfast staples as well as a good Japanese and Eastern selection.

coffee, juice, yoghurt and mixed berries, croissant, cold meats, cheeses, potato salad, pinkish bread

coffee, juice, inari, steamed chicken, potato salad, and a really nice pickled veg side

soft boiled egg, smoked salmon, steamed chicken, salad, seaweed salad, and what I believe is braised burdock root.

Japanese curry and rice, pickled ginger, okonomiyaki, braised greens

I'm not a big breakfast eater but really enjoyed breakfast every day. Dad combined East and West on his plates, and the eggs, bacon, sausage were all great quality.

A beautiful and wonderful surprise, we stumbled across by accident while looking for a loo. We found the epic, posh, stunning food hall of Daimaru. Daimaru is a department store chain and maintains that beautiful elegance and nostalgia: when department stores were a destination in themselves. I love a food hall and have not had such a delightful experience since visiting the Harrods Food Hall.

Everything on display was pristine, expensive and divine. We also made an effort to visit another Daimaru food hall in Kyoto and the meat, seafood, fruit and veg areas were something to behold ($90 for a bunch of grapes?)

We spent the first day exploring and found the cutest cafe for some caffeine and a little bite in one of the many miles of underground subway malls.

Finger sandwiches and flat whites served in Wedgewood China. Perfect after a day of exploring.

I couldn't say no to the opportunity to see a whale shark, so a visit to the aquarium was a must. Lunch was one of Osaka's signature foods: Takoyaki- octopus balls. Delicious!

Whale shark encounter

Next up was another lovely find in the underground world of subway malls was a very unpretentious eatery (Dad's only proviso was somewhere he could get a beer- my proviso is no tourists)

Miso, rice, fish croquette, big, crumbed, deep-friend prawn and one large beer. A perfect meal. It was this cafe where the older waitress spoke no English at all that I suggested to dad that he let he know the meal was meccha oiishi (super tasty) and oh my goodness, the squeal of joy and delight that the waitress emitted, I will never, ever forget. #perfecttravelmoment

We did two visits to Dottenbori, but it was very busy and hectic, we didn't eat there, but the photos are lovely.

After Dottenbori by night, and a wander through Namba Parks illuminations (Christmas lights), we headed to a izakaya near the hotel.

I'm not even going to try to attempt the name so here it is:

Unassuming but warm and the salerymen that surrounded us looked like they were enjoying the food and drink and merriness very much.

We ordered beers and highballs and tried the mixed sashimi as well as the tuna sushi. Both were wonderful.

I really enjoyed Osaka, I think I could easily spend a good amount of time there and eat a lot more food there.

Still to come in my Japan series is my post on Tokyo, the amazingness that is Convenience store foods and eating on Shinkansen. Thanks so much for reading.

Eating Kyoto

Kinkakuji- the Golden Pavilion

The highlights of Kyoto for me were Kokedera: the moss temple, the Imperial Palace and Gardens, the gorgeous autumnal colours of the maples and ginko trees, the rabbit warrens of backstreets but also some real gems when it came to eating.

Kokedera- The Moss Temple

Kamo River

Dad had discovered a lovely looking place not far from our hotel called Kyoto Sakagurakan  which turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. A modern interior with a welcoming feel. The omakase, or chefs choice was mixed with taster plates on the menu and worked like tapas, which was great for the two of us to taste and share with our drinks, for dad a draft beer and for myself a yuzu cocktail.

We started with the omakase of 6 and the scallop and mushroom

Our six-tasting small dishes consisted of pumpkin is a vinegar dressing, a mushroom and steamed greens dish I think the third was tofu, potato salad which would become a staple of my diet, a wintery pork stewed meat and veg dish and boiled veg in one of the most flavoursome and nurturing broth.

The scallop and mushroom was deep fried and crisp in the style of a chunky pakora and was very tasty indeed.

We followed on with a sashimi platter which turned out to be one of the best and freshest we had all trip. I couldn't tell you which fish were served, but the one in the back with the dark scored skin was utterly incredible.

This was, prepare yourself, and I'm not even going to describe it cause you know how good it was when I tell you what it is: Deep fried Gyoza wrapped in chicken skin. Yep.

 

Beautiful and succulent duck breast.

Deep fried camembert served with salt. Magic.

image courtesy of restaurant

image courtesy of restaurant

This unassuming coffee shop, in the backstreets served me a lovely late lunch. Takagi Coffee.

image courtesy of Ichi Oka

I'd actually popped in here for a toasted sandwich, because toasted sandwiches are my comfort food and I just needed some comfort, but alas, sold out of bread. But their coffee was lovely, as was their fish croquette and potato croquette. And of course, potato salad. As I type this I realise how carby this photo is, and I'm okay with that.

Another 'quick bite for lunch' turned out to be another amazing surprise. This was JuicyMeat Shijo Karasuma and this is their perfect Philly Cheesesteak. God it was GOOD. Dad had a steak from here and the steak was a stroke of genius, and neither were expensive at all. Very very good.

Another wonderful discovery, and we totally chose it for it's wonderful and whimsical name: Madam Clink. We had a couple of wonderful French Malbecs (one of my favourite reds) and wanted some nibbles to go with.

This is our assorted pate plate of oyster and spinach, chicken liver and citrus, salmon and olive and mushroom and almond. All delicious.

And the assorted meat plate: with salami, proscutto and mortadella, with gerkins on the side.

Some delightful eats in Kyoto. Please note, I will be dividing my trip into cities: Kyoto, Hiroshima, Osaka and Tokyo and also 'Conbini', or convenience store foods (which were INCREDIBLE!) And not all meals are included cause I was on holidays.

Unfortunately I can't supply prices on all meals as I didn't put in the usual diligence I would with a blog post, but know that eating and drinking in Japan is very, very CHEAP! Everything was outstanding value, and most of our lunches with drinks were under $20 per person, and fancy dinners including wine and cocktails or beer never topped $100 per person and was always more than one course (and more than one wine!)

Thanks for taking the time to read.